Review these corrections if you have the first printing of this book. These changes were made in the 2rd printing.
Boxer Shorts (page 26)
On page 26, under Shape Center Front and Back, the instruction should read as follows:
(RS) Increase 1 st at beginning of this row, then every 16 rows twice, every 6 rows twice, every other row 2 (3, 3, 4) times, . . . .
Canyon Hiking Socks (page 30)
On page 32, in the middle column, under Turn Heel, follow Row 7 as written, then:
Row 8 (size S only): Sl 1 st purlwise, p10, p2tog.
Row 8 (sizes M and L only): follow pattern as given.
On page 32, third column, 5th line:
58 (64, 70) sts remain.
On page 32, third column, 4th paragraph, 1st sentence:
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 for Gusset 7 (8, 9) times – then follow pattern as given.
On page 32, third column, last paragraph, first sentence should read:
Repeat Rnd 3 only 2 (3, 3) times—12 sts remain.
Chanel-ish Cardigan Jacket (page 34)
On page 37, in middle column, last line of 1st paragraph should read as follows:
Shape Shoulders as for Fronts.
Classic Sweater for Guys (page 38)
Full yarn name is Misti Alpaca Chunky.
Finished Measurements should read: 42 (44 1/2, 48 1/2, 52 1/2)”
On the schematic on page 40, the body width should be 21 (22 1/4, 24 1/4, 26 1/4)” and the front neck depth should be 2 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2, 3 1/4)”
Comfy Socks (page 42)
Throughout pattern, whenever yarn A is called for, work with one strand (not two).
Kat’s Pretty Pink Dress (page 64)
On page 67, at the bottom of the first column, under Shape Armholes and Neck:
Sizes S and L: Work 1 st, ssk, work 28 (36) sts, k2tog, work 2 sts, ssk, work 28 (36) sts, k2tog, work 1 st—64 (80) sts rem.
Love Blanket (page 82)
On page 86, for the Letter “V,” the first sentence of Shape Letter should begin as follows:
Shape Letter: (RS) Increase 1 st each side this row, then follow pattern as given.
Lush Hoodie (page 88)
On page 90, under Shape Neck, 1st sentence should read as follows:
Shape Neck: (RS) Work 19 (20, 21, 22, 23) sts; join second ball of yarn and BO next 36 (36, 38, 40, 40) sts, work to end. Working both sides at the same time, then follow pattern as given.
Many of the measurements have changed on the schematic. To see the revised measurements, click here.
Polo Shirt (page 96)
On page 98, under Front, at the end of the 2nd paragraph, the stitch count should read as follows: 95 (100, 106, 111) sts.
On page 98, under Sleeves, 4th paragraph, should read as follows:
Shape Sleeve: (RS) Increase 1 st each side on this row, then every row 7 (6, 0, 0) times, every other (RS) row 0 (1, 5, 4) times...
On page 99, the last line of the 2nd column (under Shape Collar) should read:
Work 7 (9, 11, 12) sts, then follow pattern as given.
On page 99, in the 3rd line of the 3rd column, the first sentence should read:
Next Row (RS): Work 8 (10, 12, 10) sts, then follow pattern as given.
Pompom Awning (page 100)
On the chart on page 103, add 8 yarnovers on Row 8 (on stitch #'s 5, 7, 11, 13, 17, 19, 23, and 25). The written-out instructions for this stitch pattern (given in the Stitch Guide that begins on page 100) are correct.
Recycled Scarf (page 104)
On page 106, add the following as the 3rd sentence:
Distribute sts on two stitch holders, placing all A sts on one needle and all B sts on another holder.
Red Carpet Gown (page 108)
The Gauge for this project is 20 sts and 24 rows = 4”
On the schematic on page 110 the top width should be 16 (16 3/4, 18)” and the left side of the schematic should be 49 1/2 (50 1/4, 50 3/4)".
On page 111, make the following changes:
Row 1: (RS) Slip 1 st (selvage st -- always work a slip 1 at begining of row)
5th paragraph, Next Row should read:
Next Row (RS): Slip 1 st, [k1, p1] 3(5, 8) times, sm, work in Garter st to next marker, sm, [p1, k1] 3(5, 8) times, k1.
On page 112, 1st column, under Trellis Lace Panel:
Continuing in pattern as established, work even until 5 full repeats of Trellis Lace st have been completed, end with a WS row.
1st column, under End Side Slit:
Work even for 11 rows, keeping 5 (7, 10) sts at either end in St st, end with a WS row.
3rd column, starting with Row 2 under Shape Keyhole Opening, make the following changes:
Row 2: On left side, k3, m1, continue as established to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2; on right side, sl 1 (selvage st), k1, ssk, purl to first marker, sm, work to last 3 sts, m1, k3.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2 – 38 (40, 43) sts.
Row 6: On left side, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2; on right side, sl 1, k1, ssk, work to end – 37 (39, 42) sts remain each side.
On page 113, make the following changes:
1st column, 3rd sentence should read:
For left side, *p1, k1; repeat from * across to last 1 (1, 0) st, p1 (1, 0). Work even for 2 rows, BO all sts in ribbing.
Under Back, Shape Skirt, end of paragraph should read: Work even for 5 (6, 6) rows.
2nd paragraph under Shape Skirt should read: Work even for 13 (13, 15) rows.
Slouchy Cardigan (page 114)
Under Right Front on page 116, starting at the last paragraph in the first column:
(RS) Decrease 1 st at beginning of this row, then every other row 23 times – 50 (54) sts remain, then every 4 rows 9 times, then every 6 rows 6 (8) times, and AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 16 1/2" from the beginning, Shape Armhole.
On page 116, the second full paragraph in the second column should read:
Work until Armhole measures 9 1/2"...delete the word "even"
Shape Shoulder: (WS) At Armhole edge, BO 5 sts twice, then 4 (6) sts once....
On page 116, the 3rd paragraph in the 3rd column should read:
Row 1: (WS) *K1, p1; rep from * to last 1(0) st, k1 (0).
On page 116, the 11th paragraph in the 3rd column should read:
Decrease Row: [K7, k2tog] twice, k13 (16), [k2tog, k7] twice -- 45 (48) sts remain.
Under Divide Hood and Shape Top on page 117: delete "leave remaining sts on a spare needle", and then:
Decrease Row: (RS) Decrease 1 st each side as follows: For Right Side of Hood, work across to last 3 sts, k2tog, work 1 st; for Left Side of Hood, work 1 st, ssk, work to end – 61 sts remain each side. Work 1 (WS) row. Repeat Decrease Row once, then at each center edge, BO 2 sts twice, 3 sts once, then 4 sts once, and AT THE SAME TIME, at each outside edge, BO 7 sts twice, then 8 sts once. BO remaining 27 sts each side.
Yarmulke (page 126)
Under Notes, abbreviation for Central Chain Decrease should be CCD.
In the last paragraph in the first column on the left on page 128, Line 5 to end should read as follows:
w&t (not too tightly), k17, [kwtog, k1] twice (the wraps at the other end of the short row sections will be picked up in the next round)*.
On the diagram on page 128, make the following changes:
Change “B” to “D” and “D” to “B”.
Add the following text to the bottom center marker: Center marker moves here for decrease rounds (see text).
Move marker and text at the line that divides A and B (formerly D) to the line that divides A and D (formerly B).
Special Techniques (page 137)
On page 137, replace Kitchener Stitch text with the following:
Hold pieces to be joined WS's together, with needles parallel, both ends pointing in same direction. Working from right to left, using yarn needle (yn) and yarn 4 times length of section to be joined, insert yn into first st on front needle (N1) purlwise, pull yarn through, leaving st on needle; insert yn into first st on back needle (N2) knitwise, pull yarn through, leaving st on needle; *insert yn into first st on N1 knitwise, pull yarn through, remove st from needle; insert yn into next st on N1 purlwise, pull yarn through, leave st on needle; insert yn into first st on N2 purlwise, pull yarn through, remove st from needle; insert yn into next st on N2 knitwise, pull yarn through, leave st on needle. Repeat from *, adjusting tension of sts as you go to match pieces being joined. When 1 st remains on each needle, cut yarn and pass through last 2 sts to fasten off.
On page 137, replace Picot Point CO text with the following:
Using Cable CO Method, CO 3 sts. BO 2 sts; slip rem st back to left-hand needle. This makes one picot point. *CO 2 sts. BO 2 sts; slip rem st back to left-hand needle. Rep from * until you’ve worked one picot point for each CO st required in pattern, leaving final st on right-hand needle. Working from right to left across chain, beginning with second picot point, with right-hand needle, *pick up 1 st in horizontal bar above picot point; rep from * to end of chain. You now have required number of sts on right-hand needle. Turn, ready to work a WS row.